Hm... that's not mentioned in the wiki article (at least, not before trying to add watches). Perhaps I should make it clearer?
Solved one problem -- the "Watch 'n'" shows up now.
Now another problem has shown up.
the debugger output complains it can't find a symbol file (I already verified that 'strip symbols from binary' is off, 'produce debugging output' is on, and I rebuilt the debug target.)
Specifically,
"No symbol table is loaded. Use the File command"
There is a menu option (debug -> add symbol file), but there appear to be no symbol files whatsoever in the project folder.